Modules, cases, buttons...
Thu Sep 22, 2016 11:13 pm
So basically, you're supplying 5V to the screen while the I/O is supplied with 3.3V? That sounds very weird. By the way, I want to use the parallel 8-bit interface, not the serial interface.
Thu Sep 22, 2016 11:38 pm
Nooooooo!!! I'm supplying 5v to the arduinos 5volt-in then splicing another wire into the 5v to run to the 5v on the LCD. Any thing that runs of 3v gets connected to the 3.3v pin on the arduino. There is only one voltage in the rest of the pins that need voltage get it from the Arduino supplied 5 volts in after being regulated down.
The only arduino I know of that uses two power inputs are the botboarduino by Lynxmotion which uses a 9v battery for the logic and a 6v for powering servos.
Thu Sep 22, 2016 11:56 pm
This is an example::: the not board listed above has two power inputs me for logic one for servos.
If I try to hook up a ps2 controller to the board I would have to supply 3.3v to the Reciever head. So in order to do this I run the wireless Reciever head to the 3.3v on the botboarduino.
You need to supply voltage to both voltage inputs on the LCD screen. The 5v in can be run straight from the battery while the 3v gets it from the 3.3v pin.
Your IO things are inputs that can be used as buttons or what ever. I think there is even a pull up resistor attached to the io pins which will drop the input low and register a button press.
If you have a multimeter you test your io for voltage to see if it's high at 3.3 or low at 1.65
First try to get it display an image using the normal way. When you can do that then we can talk about how to use the io.
Fri Sep 23, 2016 12:31 am
I just don't know why are you always talking about the stupid 5V IN. I don't use that pin. I power my Arduino via USB.
Here was my scheme when I connected the LCD
// pin definition for the Uno
#define cs 11
#define wr 10
#define rs 12
#define D0 9
#define D1 8
#define D2 7
#define D3 6
#define D4 5
#define D5 4
#define D6 3
#define D7 2
5V <> 5V
3.3V <> 3.3V
I used TFTDisplayText_UNO.ino and there was no image on the display. The Arduino's I/O pins supplied 5V, but the LCD can only take 3.3V which means that it definitely cannot be powered by 5V as you say and take 3.3V as the backlight. It doesn't make sense if there's 5V for the LCD and not 5V I/O of the LCD. I'm really confused and I feel like dropping the project of this display from the frustration. I simply cannot realize what kind of voltage I need to have there. By the way, the new LCD on eBay and its adapter which has resistors to correct the 5V I/O voltage to 3.3V are all sold out which means that I cannot buy them anymore. I don't know when they'll be back in stock, but that's the only seller who sells those displays. So sad.
Anyways, do you have any idea of some better LCD which has 4-bit color with a 16-bit color pallette with which I could achieve the pallette that I have included in my pre-previous post?
Fri Sep 23, 2016 12:50 am
I really dont know what to tell you. I keep saying the same thing over and over again but your second guessing me. The screen does need both the 5v and the 3.3v. ive hooked mine up supplying bith voltages.
You also dont need to use all thise data pins unless they are connected to some kind of data gatherer like an oil sending unit. But you arent building a type of guage so you will need to adapt the software to use miso and mosi and everything else gamebuino uses.
Fri Sep 23, 2016 1:48 am
Don't give up on your project!!! There is a way to do what we want but you have to undestand that this product is brand new to the market and only like me and you and few other people are trying to fix it to work.
WE have to be the innovators. No one else is goon do this for us.
I didn't mean to sound rude or mean in the above post I'm just a lil frustrated. Not at you but the situation. It shouldn't be this hard for either one of us.
Have you tried the arduino forums. There are plenty of knowledgable folks there too that might be able to help you better than I can. I want help dearly because by helping you I help myself. But let's be honest I've been working on the library because I'm stuck at the wiring part myself.
Best thing to do when your stuck is just to put it down for a while and concentrate on something else. Your problem will still be in the back of your mind but changing your focus will allow you to see things more clearly when you go back.
Fri Sep 23, 2016 12:10 pm
Alright. The only way to get the LCD working is to get that LCD board and the adapter board. I suppose that I was supposed to buy the adapter board and not just the LCD board since connecting without the adapter causes the I/O pins to be 5V instead of 3.3V like how the adapter would lower it. Now we have to wait for the LCD to get back in stock and wait some more to get it delivered. I don't think I'll have time for this project. In a week, I'll have to go to college and I don't know how things will go.
I can tell you some other info, though. When I used ST7735 and sent bytes over a fast hardware SPI to fill the screen with an 8x8 tile, it took like 1/3 of a second to do it. But I think that using the parallel interface would speed up the process.
I know that then there wouldn't be enough pins for Gamebuino stuff, but it doesn't matter because I intended to use this display on an XMEGA. But if XMEGA has no 5V while 5V is required by the display, I think it's impossible to do this project. Also, if my XMEGA game console is going to have a 4.2V battery, that would be too low for 5V to work. I really don't know what to do. I'm thinking about getting another display type maybe.
Fri Sep 23, 2016 9:22 pm
Dont get discouraged. There is way to do this. Im gonna keep working on it.
Why not use a smaller board with more capability? My teensy is 5v in with a 3.3v pin and 1.65v coming out of the serials and has a pull up resistors on the IO for button play.
Any way take a break, ill keep working and stay in contact and will share my findings when i can.
Mon Oct 10, 2016 3:37 am
Been a while since I worked on hardware and I didn't really feel like working on code much today so started getting the rest of the wires soldered to the Teensy so I can start testing. I used the chart for the LCD on page two that has the pic of their screen. Pretty straight forward on which SPI pins to use though I used the alternates 20 & 21.
I was having trouble with being able to manipulate the MCU and its wires with out worry of them falling off so I made all the wires facing the opposite of the USB and then used a lil hot glue to bind the wires together and secure them on thier pins. It has the added option of insulating between the messy solder points.
It's a mess but fortunately I thought ahead and wrote down which wires were what before gluing them. Stupid me soldered the wires straight from the screen to the MCU with out thinking about testing. The 3.3v pin on the screen is powered by the 3.3v pin at the bottom of the unit. Which also has the ground for it. Hooked up the 5v from the 5v in and it comes on ok but not bright. That's fixed by the code though.
If your still out there Zvoc47 I will edit this post with in the next couple days so keep an eye on it.
Thu Oct 13, 2016 11:58 am
When you wire that, tell me. Will you be using the parallel interface or the serial interface? I wish you could use the parallel one so that I can see how you did it. By the way, why are your pins bent and why didn't you use jumpers, but instead soldered the pins? It's going to be harder to make a parallel wiring now.
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